It was designed as a retreat center, a scenic location offering serene spots for contemplation that eventually became a popular spot for weddings. And so we headed off to the Caleruega Retreat Center for an appointment with nature in a pilgrimage setting. We were hardly expecting to encounter scenic views that looked more like a Tuscan countryside rather than a hilly locality in a tropical country.

The Caleruega Retreat Center was established in 1994 as a venue for prayer and meditation and as a retreat destination in the hilly parts of Nasugbu, Batangas. It was named after the Spanish town of Caleruega, the birthplace of Dominic de Guzman, a priest who founded the Dominican Order. The latter is a Roman Catholic mendicant order of preachers who built and presently manage this retreat center. Its centerpiece is the Transfiguration Chapel, a magnificent church set atop a hill.

The beautiful architecture of the Transfiguration Chapel and the charming garden around it makes it an ideal location for a marital ceremony. Its proximity to the highlands of Tagaytay City, a tourist spot popular for its many cafes and restaurants with scenic views of Taal Lake and Volcano is another factor, no doubt, for its selection as a favorite venue for weddings.

The chapel and its surrounding garden is the centerpiece of the Caleruega Retreat Center. We were hoping to explore the interior of the church but a wedding ceremony – but of course – was going on inside. We then trudged down a steep flight of stairs known as the Dominican Steps on our way to the Koi pond and gardens. But halfway down those steps we came across a view deck with these views:

Just like Tuscany, a friend later remarked. But in a tropical country more famous for its palm-fringed beaches, isolated islands and turquoise waters. The saw-toothed mountain in the background containing 12 jagged peaks pockmarked by rugged ridges and deep gorges is Mt. Batulao. It is an inactive stratovolcano at the northwestern rim of the Taal Caldera and part of a massive volcano complex in these parts.

On a camping and scouting trip during his high school years, Leo was able to scale the peak of Mt. Batulao with some of his classmates using ropes to make the ascent. This mountain is not difficult to hike and is a popular day hike recommended for beginners due to its relatively low difficulty. At the summit, there are impressive vistas of the whole countryside including Taal Lake and Volcano, the Pico de Loro mountain range and distant Balayan Bay.

Back at Caleruega, we eventually made it to the Kois pond and gardens, a natural complex that you can traverse via an elevated walkway. There are benches for people wishing to stop, rest or meditate and we spent some time just chilling under the shade of trees and mammoth ferns. The kois at the pond are quite huge (unfortunately we failed to take photos). Cesar, our companion friend, said one of these could easily fetch tens of thousands of pesos.

Walking past the Kois pond we came across a hanging bridge on the way to the Tent Chapel, a smaller church with another view of Mt. Batulao. There are also other halls, dormitories and cottages (for retreats and prayer) spread out over the lush greenery of the 8-hectare complex that we could have explored. It was however almost lunch time when we made it past the hanging bridge and decided to give way to our growling stomachs. Again. We were soon on our way to the adjacent town of Alfonso for lunch and coffee. But not without stealing another view of Mt. Batulao and its rugged peaks from another view point along the road leading out from Caleruega.

To see more of Leo and Nina’s work, click here!