Scenes from a long-forgotten L.A.
My Real Memoir
My farewell to old Los Angeles. That was what it turned out to be. When school was out, Mom would sometimes take me to “her L.A.” The two musts of these magical mystery tours were the Red Car and a Hollywood-esque cafeteria called Clifton’s. This would be the last time I ever saw either.
After Dad’s three years on “the chain gang” at the Los Angeles Herald-Express loading-docks, a judge had reversed his “unmerited” driver’s license revocation. And as a result, Dad had landed a far-better-paying position as a newspaper dealer in a shiny new outer-L.A. suburb; and Mom had quit her job at a venerable old downtown leather factory.
What’s a Red Car?
L.A., the City of Freeways—yes, that L.A.—was once home to the world’s largest public transit system. Privately-operated Pacific Electric streetcars, nicknamed “the Red Car,” honeycombed a huge portion of Southern California. Thus, Mom and I were able to climb aboard just a few blocks away from our little suburban bungalow. But even then, the al-dente tangle of freeways was spreading, and commuting by car was becoming “the future of transportation.” So, contrary to the Who Framed Roger Rabbit evil toon plot, in the end it was the freeways that killed the Red Car.
Mom and I rode a Red Car one final time. I attended a highly prestigious Three Stooges Movie Marathon (nyuk, nyuk) while she shopped. And then, as always, we lunched at the legendary…
Clifton’s Cafeteria
Founded during the Great Depression, Clifton’s had a “pay what you wish” policy, regularly serving down-and-outers for free, even after the Depression ended. Just a bare bones eatery, right? Oh, no! Clifton’s was a magical forest of wonders, with deer and moose dioramas, an elevator inside a giant redwood tree, and tables scattered among waterfalls and verdant stream-fed grottos. All fake, of course. But not to me—it was all real to me…
Including the Little Chapel. For a nickel, this tiny one-person-church featured music, voices reciting Scriptures, and the kindly face of a person who might or might not be Jesus. I’d had a non-religious upbringing, so I wasn’t sure what any of it meant. Nevertheless, every time we went to Clifton’s, I had to visit the Little Chapel. It seems I had an undefined yearning for the transcendent even then.
Dream On, Honey
Mom’s L.A. included Pershing Square, the Biltmore Hotel, and the hill-climbing Angel’s Flight railway. After which, we’d find a tree-side table at Clifton’s, and she’d listen attentively as I described my ever-changing dreams. Dad’s goal was for me to be successful. But Mom simply wanted me to be me. And even when my plans were as phantasmagorical as Clifton’s, she’d encourage me to pursue them. So, in honor of the upcoming Mother’s Day, allow me to close with a final, belated…
Thanks, Mom!

This is how I feel when I return home to Las Vegas. My family moved there in January 1974. As a 14 yr old I was overwhelmed by the strip and Fremont street. There were 99 cent breakfasts, smoking everywhere, free valet parking and shows that were affordable. My family is still there. Fast forward 52 years and the hotels I knew are gone. You pay for valet parking, no cheap meals and we can no longer drive down Fremont street. (A favorite weekend activity to high schoolers in the 70s). I feel sad it’s become a parody of itself.
I used to love Fremont in the late 70s early 80s, The Lady Luck Casino was my first experience. It didn’t have any hotel then, just a small gambling joint.
We lived in LA 12 years. SoCal it has been 48.5. I have always loved the Biltmore Hotel, particularly at Xmas time. I took that micro train ride that they tore down many times from Pershing Square. We were delighted to move out of that sprawling city 32 years ago. What a relief….. Cincy, other than the climate, looks delightful.
Very cool. Is that a cable car? I never knew that LA had cable cars like San Francisco.
Appropriate moment to visit Memory Lane!
Pay what you can. That was the theme at a West Bank, Minneapolis restaurant I worked at in the later 60’s. The New Riverside Cafe. Also a mecca for music. The Dead, Stephan Grappelli, the Explodo boys, Rosalie Sorrels and a host of others who enjoyed being at Cedar and Riverside. Now home to the “Learing center” and folks a lot less happy to see me touring my old ‘hood’ Sala vie Cedar Riverside and the hippies.
Clifton’s sounds amazing!
What a fantastic journey through your past. I think the redwood tree with an elevator would have blown my mind. This is truly a great read Mitch!